Dog Training Crates

Perhaps your dog is a rescue and was never properly house trained. Or you have to move across the country and need to put her in a crate for the trip. Or maybe the pooch has just started acting out in destructive ways while you’re away from the house. There are many reasons why you might need to train your adult dog to sit calmly and quietly in a crate.

Unfortunately, this is something that can cause harm to your dog if you don’t do it in the right way. What you don’t want is for your pooch to panic in the crate and end up getting hurt.

So what do you need to do to crate train your adult dog in the right way?

Get them ready

Before you begin crate training, always exercise your dog with a long walk to drain excess energy. Additionally, you want to take him outside to go to the bathroom, so you don’t have to interrupt your training for a “potty break.”

Have patience

Unlike with puppies, which don’t have habits they’ve been forming for their entire lives, adult dogs may have spent years without ever entering a crate. This means they’re probably going to be a lot more resistant to the idea and may fight against it more. Your job is to bear with them and keep trying. Over time, most adult dogs will come to accept a crate with the right training.

Use treats

Your goal is to make your dog associate the crate with positive feelings, so encourage her to go to the crate by putting treats and even food inside. Eventually she’ll see the crate as the place where good things happen and won’t be as fearful.

Make it comfy

Dogs love it when they can find a nice, comfortable place to sit or lie down, so one of the best things you can do is to treat your dog’s crate like it’s just another resting place. Place a favorite blanket inside or buy a new one and leave the door open, so he can come and go as he pleases.

Close the door — briefly!

Obviously, the eventual goal with the crate is to be able to close the door and still have your dog keep calm. Once you get to the point where your pooch seems comfortable hanging out in the open crate, offer some kind of distraction (perhaps a toy or treat) and close the door while she is engaged.

Start with intervals of five minutes or less and make sure you stay close by and visible. Gradually keep it closed for longer periods and leave the room so your dog can come to understand that she is still safe — and will eventually get out — even if you’re not right there in front of her.

Keep it up with these methods and most adult dogs will eventually come to accept a crate willingly. You may even discover that it becomes your dog’s new favorite place to sleep!

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How to choose the best dog trainer for your puppy

Most dog owners know that it’s a lot easier to train dogs when they are younger, but they’re not really sure how to go about it and what they should look for when seeking out a trainer. Today, we’re going to talk about how (and when) you should go about getting your puppy professionally trained.

Ensure health first

Before seeking out any kind of training or classes, always make sure that your pup is up to date on his or her vaccinations and doesn’t have any other concerning health issues. The last thing you want to do is expose your dog — or other dogs — to potential illness or injury.

Start at the right time

While “the younger, the better” is largely true, there are still optimal times for seeking out training for your pup. For example, while regular training classes typically shouldn’t be started until your puppy is at least 6 months old, there are specific “puppy training” classes available for very young dogs. Your pup should enroll in this type of class from 8 to 16 weeks of age.

Ask about certifications

While there are certainly plenty of great dog trainers out there who positively change the lives of their canine charges and their Pack Leaders without possessing any kind of formal certification, it’s still worth asking trainers if they have been certified.

There are all kinds of programs out there that will provide people with a “certification” paper simply for completing a paid class, so try to find a trainer who has met the requirements of the International Association of Canine Professionals (IACP), Certification Council for Pet Dog Trainers (CCPDT), or the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants (IAABC).

If a trainer has a certification from one of these programs, you know that their abilities have been individually measured and that they have completed a significant number of training hours.

Demand humane methods

There are many philosophies about how best to train dogs, and it’s true that not all dogs are the same — while some are food-motivated, for example, others prefer play or affection. But most respected organizations agree that positive motivators that reward dogs for good behaviors are more effective for training than negative motivators that punish them for bad behaviors. This is especially true for training puppies, because most haven’t really had time to have any unwanted behaviors become ingrained.

If you notice a puppy trainer engaging any training techniques that involve hitting, scaring, or yelling at dogs, look elsewhere. You want someone who ignores unwanted behaviors, praises appropriate behaviors, and engages in calm, assertive corrections when necessary. Remember, a correction does not mean hitting a dog. It means redirecting or blocking them from an unwanted behavior. Most puppies will naturally gravitate toward acts that earn them rewards.

See how you feel

A trainer may have years of experience and a successful track record, but if you don’t approve of their methods or feel comfortable working with them, you should probably look for someone else. Even if a trainer is detailing all of the things that you are doing wrong with your pup, they should be able to treat you respectfully and explain things in a way that’s easy for you to understand.

Additionally, good trainers will keep up with the latest in dog training methods and be able to tell you about what’s out there, adapt their methods to an individual dog’s needs, and have rules in place to protect dogs, such as requiring vaccinations — this last one is especially important for puppy classes!

Ultimately, there’s only so much you can do when picking a trainer for your pup. If you choose someone and then later feel like you made a mistake, don’t hesitate to seek help elsewhere. And if you’re unsure where to find good puppy trainers, talk to your vet or other pet owners you know for recommendations.

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Puppy crate training made easy

There are many reasons you might want to crate train your new puppy. A crate can be invaluable while you are potty-training or teaching your dog the rules of the house, it’s a great way to transport your four-legged friend, and it can serve as a safe place for your pup to escape to once he comes to accept it as his space.

Unfortunately, even though dogs are den animals and they like having an area that’s all theirs, most won’t automatically take to crates — and your pup can even come to fear them if you don’t handle crate training in the right way.

The good thing is that puppies don’t have any preconceived notions about anything. As long as you follow the below tips, your new canine family member should come to love her crate and may even start going into it on her own when she want to rest or relax.

Introduce it casually

The worst way you can introduce your puppy to the idea of a crate is to bring it home and lock him inside it immediately. People don’t like being trapped against their will, and neither do dogs. Instead, you should initially treat the crate like it’s just another piece of furniture — but one that he can enjoy.

To this end, place it in a part of the house that he frequents, add a blanket and a toy or two, and keep the door open. Then back off and give him a chance to explore it. Some dogs will immediately start sniffing around and going into the crate, which is a great sign. If your puppy isn’t quite so bold, encourage him to check it out by placing favorite foods and toys near and inside the crate. The ultimate goal is to get him comfortable with going inside, and this is something that could take days. Be patient with the process.

Use it for meal time

After she’s willing to enter the crate, your next goal is to get her comfortable with staying inside for extended lengths of time. One of the best ways to do this (and create a positive association with the crate) is to start putting her food in the crate.

If possible, you want to place the food at the back of the crate so that your dog goes all the way in. Some dogs may not be willing to do this, though, so you can start with the food just inside the crate and slowly move it back with successive meals.

Close the crate

As soon as your dog is eating his meals while standing all the way inside the crate, it’s time to close the door. After he’s done eating that first time, open the door immediately. You’ll leave him in longer and longer with each meal, adding just a few minutes every time.

It’s possible that your dog may whine. If this happens, open the crate immediately and don’t leave him in as long next time. However, if he whines again, wait until he stops before letting him out or you will teach him that whining equals open door.

Extend crate time

Once your dog is hanging out in her closed crate without signs of stress, it’s time to lengthen her stay. Use a favorite toy or treat to encourage her to enter the crate, then close it. Hang out by the crate for several minutes, then go into a different room for a few minutes so she gets used to the idea of staying in the crate alone. When you return, don’t open the crate immediately. Instead, sit with her again for a few more minutes and then open the door.

Keep increasing the time as you do this until your dog is able to stay in the locked crate for half an hour without your presence. When she’s able to do this, she’s ready for you to leave her for short periods and possibly even sleep in the closed crate overnight. Make sure you keep the crate relatively nearby for overnight stays though. Puppies usually need to go to the bathroom overnight and you’ll want to be able to let her out.

Leaving and returning

The key here is to make crating seem completely normal and avoid excitement. Encourage him to get into the crate and praise him when he does so, but keep it brief. When you come home, stay low-key and ignore any excited behavior that he shows.

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How to Train a Hunting Dog To Retrieve | Duck Hunt Dog

So you want to know how to train a hunting dog to retrieve ducks? Follow these basic dog training steps and your dog will be fetching ducks in no time.

How to Train a Hunting Dog To Retrieve Waterfowl | Duck Hunt Dog

When it comes to hunting, people consider bringing a dog along with them, however before telling a dog “Fetch the duck,” you may want to consider training the dog, so that it actually fetches the duck.

While many people think that for a dog, fetching a duck is exactly like fetching a rubber ball, but actually, for the dog’s first time, it can be rather hard. You see, dogs can sense life and death. When telling your dog to bring you the duck you shot, they may refuse, as they can smell that the duck has been killed. In this guide, you will be taught to train your dog, so that it’s easy for you and your dog.

Step 1 – Choose The Right Dog

For hunting ducks and similar birds, Labrador Retrievers are proven to do the job best. However, any retreivers are quite good at retrieving – hence the name. Don’t have a retriever? Basically any dog that has “English” in their name, such as the English Setter, or the English Springer Spaniel are also naturals. You’ll want a dog that is good at swimming and fetching.

Step 2 – Choose a Location

This training lesson requires water. A pool (chlorine free), pond, or lake are all ideal options, but make sure that the water has no current, as it makes the training more stressful for your dog.

Step 3 – Gather Equipment

You will need:

• mock duck
• rope
• anchor

The mock duck can be any object that floats, but can be pulled down into the water. It has to be the size perfect for your dog’s jaw, not too big, not too small, nor hard. Preferably a duck toy for dogs. You can make one by stuffing a sock with other socks, so that it’s stuffed and then tying it closed. Make sure that the sock doesn’t have your smell on it so you don’t confuse them.

The next thing you need is a rope. The more unnoticeable it is, the better. It has to be around 15-25 ft.

The last item you need is is an anchor. Something that will sink, and can have a rope get pulled through it.

Step 4 – Add Scent

Take the floating item you chose and rub raw meat on it. Let the meat soak in. WARNING: After you you have rubbed meat on the item, use it within 24 hours. You don’t want the meat to rot on the toy.

Step 5 – Prepare the Rope

Tie one end of the rope to the floating toy, then pull the rope through the anchor. Drop the anchor along with the floating toy in the water. While you do this, make sure you hold the other end of the rope.

Step 6 – Training the Dog

The rope is already setup in the water. Now, with the rope in your hand send your dog to swim to the floating toy. This can be done by a person swimming near the toy, encouraging your dog to swim to it. DO NOT LET THE DOG SWIM TO THE PERSON, ONLY THE TOY!

When your dog gets close to the toy, pull the rope, bobbing it a little and then making it as if diving into the water.

Wounded ducks will dive from the retriever, hoping to survive. Your dog should get encouraged by the bobbing and dive after it. This is a natural instinct for dogs. 

When your dog dived in after it, let your rope go, letting your dog bring the duck to you!

Reward the dog with treats and lots of praise once they have properly retrieved the duck. Dogs thrive on positive reinforcement.

Step 7 – Repeat

Once your dog knows how to do that, practice it over and over again at least thirty times for memory permanence.

More Duck Retrieving Tips & Tricks

Time – Expect training to take a whole month. Practice for at least 30 minutes a day several times a week. Positive reinforcement is key. Retrieval will become 2nd nature for the dog in no time.

Gunfire – The sound of the firing gun can startle your dog. A dog needs time to get used to the sound. Spend some time in nature, ask a friend to shoot at the sky far away, and then closer to you and your dog. Calm down your dog if it gets startled, act as a role model. If your dog sees you acting calm and happy when someone shoots, your dog will understand that the sound is nothing to be afraid of.

Finding the Duck – In the last step, we recommended to make someone stand in the water, encouraging your dog to grab the duck toy, however most dogs will probably swim to you, and not the duck.

To help your dog grab the duck,  spend some time playing Fetch with the floating item. Preferably in the water. Your dog will understand that you want the item, so he will bring it to you.
A good practicing idea is to shoot your rifle, gun, etc. Into the air and then throw the floating item for your dog to retrieve. This will help the dog get used to the rifle sound. It may even teach your dog that the “BAM” means “Go get the duck!” And you won’t even have to tell your dog to retrieve your meat!

Age of Dog – Although many commands and tricks should be taught to a puppy, training a dog to hunt should be taught later in the dog’s life. When the dog isn’t a puppy but is still young (1 year old) is a recommended age.

Have fun! – Don’t force your dog to fetch the duck. The more fun the dog senses in you, the more fun it will have. And what’s better than a happy dog learning from its master?

Now you’re ready for some duck hunting! Always treat all animals with respect- yes, even the ones you are hunting. Practice the rules and regulations of waterfowl hunting season – and all hunting seasons for that matter.

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Guide Dog Training

Guide Dog Training

It takes nearly two years to develop a playful pup into a responsible Guide Dog. The process outlined below ensures that we get the right dog for the job.

Step 1: Puppy raising

New puppies arrive at the Guide Dogs Centre at the age of approximately eight weeks.

We work with purebred Labradors, Golden Retrievers and Labrador/Golden Retriever crosses. These breeds are calm, loyal and intelligent, and have a proven track record as Guide Dogs. They also come in all shapes and sizes - just like the people who use our services!

Our veterinarian checks that the new recruits are confident, responsive and healthy - the qualities of a successful Guide Dog. The pups are then placed with families that have been specially selected by Guide Dogs staff. We call them "puppy raisers". (You can learn more about becoming a puppy raiser here.)

Over the next 12 months, these families will provide the pups with basic social skills, obedience and lots of fun! The pups will visit places they'll later encounter as Guide Dogs, and experience all the sights, sounds and - most importantly for any dog - smells of the outside world.

The dogs are visited regularly by our Puppy Raising Officers, who monitor their development and take them on training walks on their local area. In addition, the pups spend time at the Guide Dogs Centre - to help them become familiar with their next home.

Find out more about Puppy Raising.

Step 2: Guide Dog training

When the pups are about 14 months old, they return to the Guide Dogs Centre.

Over two weeks, our instructors carefully assess every puppy on several long walks. Prospective Guide Dogs must be eager to work, with good concentration and initiative. They must also control the temptation to be distracted by other animals.

With such stringent standards, not all puppies are suitable for guiding work. Puppies that are unsuitable may become Pets As Therapy dogs - much-loved companions for people who may be disadvantaged due to age, illness or disability. A dog that is unsuitable for either role is offered to its puppy raisers as a pet.

Puppies that are selected to become Guide Dogs undergo an intensive five-month program to learn the complex skills required for their new job. They begin with simple commands and progress to more challenging tasks. These skills include:

• Walking in a straight line without sniffing.
• Walking on the left-hand side slightly ahead of the trainer.
• Stopping at all kerbs.
• Waiting for a command before crossing roads.
• Stopping at the top and bottom of stairs.
• Avoiding obstacles at head height.
• Avoiding spaces too narrow for a person and a dog to walk through side by side.
• Boarding and travelling on all forms of public transport.
• Taking the trainer to a lift.
• Laying quietly for some time, particularly at a workplace or in restaurants.
• Refusing commands that may lead the trainer into danger - for example, if the trainer instructs the Guide Dog to walk them into a hole, the dog should refuse to walk forward when commanded.

Some tasks - for instance, stopping at kerbs and staircases - are taught through repetition. Other tasks, such as safely crossing the road, require intensive training. And it takes a well-trained dog to handle the unexpected, like a car reversing from a driveway.

As training progresses, Guide Dogs learn to travel through confusing and crowded areas, such as shopping centres and busy city streets. In fact, experienced Guide Dogs can lead their users to a list of destinations. As you can imagine, this requires careful teaching so the dog learns each command in a complex sequence of events.

Despite the hard work involved, Guide Dogs have a rewarding job indeed. These intelligent dogs lead an interesting life and enjoy its many challenges.

Step 3: Training the Guide Dog team

Dogs that successfully complete our rigorous training program are matched with a potential client. We make sure that the dog is well-suited to the client's specific lifestyle and travel needs.

For example, Beth White does the morning school run with her three children, runs her own massage therapy practice and loves to water ski in her spare time. Beth is also blind. But Beth doesn't let her disability dictate her choices, and she needed a confident, active guide dog to keep up with her busy life.

Beth's guide dog Teena is all this and more. Teena is a formidable guide and adapts to whatever situation is demanded of her, from guiding Beth to and from school with the children, the shops, Beth's college where she studied to become a massage therapist, swimming lessons and everything in between.

After Beth was matched with Teena, they trained together with the help of an Orientation and Mobility Instructor from Guide Dogs. Over four weeks, the instructor taught the new team how to travel together - both around Beth's home, her local community and further afield. Key to this training is Beth learning the right commands for Teena and the pair orienting themselves in Beth's environment. But it's not all about travel, with Beth also responsible for all aspects of caring for Teena, including diet, grooming and health checks.

As with Beth and Teena, training programs are provided free of charge and tailored to the needs of each person. Guide Dogs provides ongoing support and training, such as when a person is faced with new areas of travel, By maintaining this high standard of service, we ensure each person lives as independently as possible.

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House Train Your Dog

House training a puppy or adult dog may seem daunting, but almost any dog can be trained to wait at the door and relieve himself outside, instead of going in the house. Create a schedule for feeding your dog and taking him outside. Then, reward your dog with treats and praise when he relieves himself in the designated outdoor spot. When he makes a mess in the house, just clean it up and stick to the routine, since punishing a dog will simply make him afraid of you. Patience and a good sense of humor are all you really need to help your dog adapt to life as a pet.

1. Setting Up a Routine

Take your dog outside frequently. This is the most important thing you can do to teach your dog to relieve himself outside. While it may seem excessive, try to take him outside as frequently as possible, about every half an hour. Stick to a schedule and try not to miss even one designated "outside time," since your dog will learn to associate these outside trips with relieving himself.

• If you're training a puppy, you'll need to take him outside more frequently. Puppies have small bladders and can't physically hold their pee for long periods of time.

Put your dog on a feeding schedule. Feed your dog at the same time in the morning and at night, then wait 20 to 30 minutes before taking him outside. Having a feeding schedule will make it easier to predict when your dog will have to go to the bathroom, making house training easier.

• Puppies need to be fed three times a day. If you have a puppy, schedule a regular lunchtime feeding as well. Again, a puppy should be given more opportunities to go outside, since it has a smaller bladder.

Learn to interpret signs that your dog has to go. Signs include walking around stiffly, sniffing the floor as though he's looking for a place to go, holding his tail in a funny position, and so on. If your dog shows signs that he needs to go to the bathroom, take him outside right away, even if it's before the designated time to go out.[2] Include a verbal cue, such as saying, "outside" before you take him out. Eventually, you'll be able to ask him if he needs to go outside, simply by saying the word.

• When you first start training your dog to go outside, you're teaching him that when he feels the urge, that means it's time to go outside. Each time your dog successfully goes outside, the idea that bathroom = outside is reinforced.
• Remember to take your dog outside 20 to 30 minutes after every meal and after he drinks water, since he'll likely have to go to the bathroom.

Pick a designated spot outside. Choose in your backyard, or if you don't have one, near a green patch of grass somewhere. Take your dog back to the same place each and every time you go outside. Dogs are creatures of habit. You can help your dog feel comfortable and less anxious by picking a good spot for him to use as his "bathroom" each time he goes out. Use a verbal cue such as, "go potty" when you've reached the spot. He'll learn to associate it with the place.

• Remember to follow your city's ordinances regarding picking up after your pet. If you have no choice but to let your dog use a public spot as his bathroom, you'll need to bring a bag so you can pick up the waste and dispose of it.

Supervise your dog during house training. When you first bring your dog or puppy home, plan to spend a lot of time watching your pet to make sure he doesn't go to the bathroom indoors. This supervisory period is imperative because it enables you to teach the dog to quickly associate the urge to pee or poop with going outside. Intercepting the dog or puppy before he goes in the house is the best way to house train quickly.

• If you can't stay home all day to supervise your dog, you'll need to have someone else come over to take the dog out several times during the day. Make sure the person knows to take the dog to the designated spot each time.

Keep your dog in a crate at night and when you're away. If you leave your dog or puppy free to roam the house at night, he's sure to end up soiling the floor. Keeping him in a cozy crate at night and when you're gone reduces the chance that he'll make a mess. Dogs don't like to soil their dens, so your dog will try to wait until he can go outside to relieve himself.

• Dogs should see their crates as safe spaces and enjoy spending time there. Keeping your dog in a crate is not meant to be a form of punishment. Never punish your dog by banishing him to the crate, or he'll come to associate it with fear instead of comfort.
• Do not let your dog stay in his crate for too long before taking him outside. If you wait too long, he'll have no choice but to relieve himself in the crate. Dogs need plenty of exercise and playtime too, so you should never leave them crated for more than a few hours at a time or overnight.

Clean up messes right away. If your dog makes a mess in the house (and he definitely will), clean it up right away and use a cleaning solution to get rid of the scent. If your dog smells an old mess in a certain spot, he'll think of that as a bathroom spot.

• Do not punish the dog for making a mess. Just clean it up and stick to the schedule.

2. Rewarding the Dog for Good Behavior

Give your dog treats and praise each time he successfully goes outside. Dogs learn best through positive reinforcement and they quickly learn the best way to get it. Every time your dog is able to go to the bathroom in his designated spot, reward him with a little treat, lots of praise, and a scratch on the head.

• Be consistent when it comes to rewarding your dog. Do it every single time he goes to the bathroom in the bathroom spot.
• You can of course reward your dog for other things, like learning how to sit and stay. All good behavior should be rewarded.

Time the reward correctly. When you're treating your dog for going to the bathroom in his spot, give him a treat and praise right after he finishes relieving himself. Don't give it too early or too late, or he won't associate it with going to the bathroom in the right spot.

Consider using a bell or chime to aid in training. Some people have had success using the bell method instead of a treat. When your dog goes to the bathroom in his spot, you ring a bell or pleasant-sounding chime to as part of his reward. The dog will come to look forward to the sound of the chime, which should only be used in this specific situation.

• The drawback here is that eventually you won't want to keep using a chime or bell every time your dog goes to the bathroom. Initially phasing it out might be confusing to the dog.

Keep your voice and manner light and friendly. Whenever you're taking your dog to the bathroom or talking about it, keep your voice light and pleasant. Never raise your voice or take on a menacing tone, because your dog will start to associate his bodily functions with punishment and fear. If your dog makes a mess inside, you can withhold praise, but don't yell at the dog or make him feel ashamed.

• If using verbal cues, such as "outside", "go potty", or "good dog" be consistent. The repetition of these words along with the action and environment will reinforce where you want your dog to relieve himself.

Never punish the dog for making a mess. Dogs don't respond well to punishment. It scares them and instead of learning to perform well for you, they learn to fear you. Never yell, hit, or do anything that could cause your dog to feel afraid.

• Do not rub your dog's face in his mess. Contrary to some beliefs, this does not teach a dog not to go to the bathroom in the house. The dog will not understand what you're doing and you'll just end up scaring him.

3. Paper Training a Dog in an Apartment

Pick an out-of-the-way spot that's easy for your dog to access. If you live in a high rise, you won't be able to make it outside every time your dog needs to go to the bathroom. Pick a spot in your apartment that isn't right in the middle of your living space, but is also easy for your dog to access at any time. A corner of the laundry room or kitchen works well. Choose a spot on hardwood or vinyl flooring, rather than carpet

Line the designated spot with newspaper or training pads. Newspaper is a cheap material you can use to create a bathroom mat for your dog. Absorbent training pads are also available in pet stores. Choose the option that's most convenient for your household.

• You could also use a dog litter tray. If you'll also take your dog outside to relieve himself, consider filling the tray with soil. This way, the dog will learn that it's acceptable to relieve itself outdoors and indoors.
• Be aware that your dog may get used to only relieving himself on newspaper, if that's all that you put down.

Take your dog to the spot on a regular schedule. Take your dog to the bathroom mat on a strict schedule, just as you would if you were training your dog to go to a spot outside. Frequently walk him to the mat throughout the day and each time he shows signs of needing to relieve himself.

Change the mat often, but leave a little spot of dried urine there. The scent of the urine will help your dog remember that the mat is the place to go to the bathroom. Remove feces right away, but leave a sheet of newspaper or a small bit of padding with urine on the clean mat so your dog will naturally know where to go.

Reward your dog for going in the spot. Each time he successfully goes on the mat, reward him with a treat, petting and praise. He'll eventually come to associate going to the bathroom on the mat with positive feelings, and he'll start going there without your help before too long.

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Hands Off Dog Training Formula Torrent

Hands off dog training formula torrent. Nothing s more unpleasant more than debating your puppy outdoors to have a walk but not having the ability to command all of them. It can be upsetting together with quite frustrating! Could this sound familiar? For those who have this issue, then you most probably possess a pet dog which has several other behavior troubles with your pet. Your pet possibly begs to get meals, nips at you when ever playing, isn t going to pay attention to you once you call him / her which is disobedient typically. If you are searching to have a resolution you definitely should think about Secret to Dog Training SitStayFetch by Daniel Stevens. 

Secrets to Dog Training is considered the entire plus in depth information just for dog liability, available immediately. There is no need to spend time searching for details on the online world, and this can be both equally unclear and annoying. It was the error which I made, and yes it took me some time to learn more about this fantastic guidebook. The practice is extremely very well organized, as well as simply select the strategies together with speed that best suits you perfect. Various methods of training usually are refreshingly common-sense as well as simple to stick to, some should be a tiny bit more complex and desires additional efforts (for examples, dog whispering), but give wonderful end result.

Daniel Stevens provides you with detail by detail instructions to train you effective tactics for coaching, through puppy s to elderly dogs. You are likely to discover more about the right way to put a stop to your dog s jumping, anger, biting on together with biting onto your piece of furniture or some other concerns that you could deal with along with your dog. You are going to find out about the best way to recognise your puppy, the best way to identify the various concerns as soon as they arise, and the ways to praise his or her behaviour while he does indeed good. Each of these explanations and much more are offered to anyone to strengthen the partnership among you and your dog.

Even while totally different dogs will require various training techniques, the right time is definitely conversation strategies that will help you obtain achieving success it doesn t matter what you are attempting. With information and facts you could have just simply realized you ll want to currently have a greater knowledge of the ideal way to educate your pup. Given that you ve increased knowing kind tactics plus objectives with your teaching your dog efforts, if you happen to aren t achieving your primary goal, in that case try out changing a bit of mistaken belief until you get a tactic created only for you. 

Keep in mind that teaching will need time. Lots of people have a error of considering a dog is ‘untrainable when ever challenges really do not go ahead compliance with prepare rapidly. A few young puppies reply to orders previous other ones, in fact it really is characteristically based on type together with years of age. In case you have put into practice an older puppy dog, it could take quite a long time, because he can be emerge his or her ways. Make sure you keep comfortable, and also discover that your pet dog generally wishes to give pleasure to his / her boss in the future.

Please don t waste time daily instruction your pet dog, specifically in relation to its techniques. It is usually more effective Steven Jackson Jersey to teach each day, but put in not more than 10-15 minutes approximately per period of time. This process makes sure that your pet dog does not lose interest . Be sure that you motivation your puppy permanently effectiveness and after that he may turn into a trickster quickly enough.

Avoid pet anger and also battling Immediate housetraining strategies keep you pet dog from running outside the house any time you opened the entranceway Just stop continual shouting Ways to avoid your puppy from feeding on her own walls

Last of all, Daniel Stevens tried and tested advice and tips develop from his particular actual life experiences as being a pro puppy coach. Steven also has taken enough time to track record a directly foreword, easy to understand 30-minute training video that anyone can download and enjoy in your mobile computer along with realistic samples of awful puppy habits, the way to handle the difficulties and methods to converting all of them. This may be a extremely all-inclusive offer having a large amount of real information given and this truly does use a bit of time in order to soak everything way up. The good news is, the guide is certainly formatted that allows you to quickly extract what you have to operate on along with your puppy right away. This system consists of an easy-to-follow 30-minute training video which offers real-life samples of puppy bad behavior and also methods of change it out for better. Hands off dog training formula torrent. 

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Classical Conditioning: A Basic Form of Learning

Classical conditioning is how we learn to associate a neutral stimulus (like a sound, or a light) with a consequence. Classical conditioning means “basic learning”. That’s it. It’s one of the simplest ways dogs (and all animals) learn.

You may also hear it referred to as Pavlovian conditioning or associative learning. Once you understand this principle you will be able to truly see what is going on behind some "mysterious" pet behaviors.

For example, have you ever heard (or maybe even experienced) that dogs have a “sixth” sense?

 “My dog gets so excited when I pick up the leash, he knows we are going for a walk!.

“My dog knows when my son is coming home before he gets through the door!”

 "My dog knows when she did something wrong! she hides under the table with her tail between her legs before I even say anything!"

These classical conditioning examples (and million others like that) are not because dogs have a "sixth" sense. Dogs can predict what happens because they learn through classical conditioning.

Hos does classical conditioning work?

3 steps to learn an association

First: there is a signal (something the dog hears, sees or feels). This is called "neutral stimulus" by physiologists because without any learning, it doesn't mean anything, it's neutral. For example:

• the sound of the leash clicking
• the distinct sound of your son's car engine (which your dog can hear better than you)
• the subtle but clear (to your dog) body language signals you give away when you are upset (short breathing, tense muscles, etc.)

Second: right after the signal appears, something else happens. This event is called the "unconditioned stimulus or US" by psychologists because it triggers an "unconditioned response or UR" in the animal.  These are events that naturally, and without training, elicit a reaction in the animal (a feeling, an action, an internal state, etc). For example:

• Going out for a walk (US): exercise, social interactions with other dogs and people, interesting smells are all things that produce hormones that make dogs "happy" (UR). 
• Your son arriving at the door and feeding the dog (US): social interactions with a family member and eating are all events that also trigger happy feelings as well as the feeling of hunger/eating (UR).
• You scold or punish your dog (US): elicits the feeling of fear and the actions of tail in-between the legs, ears back and maybe whining (UR). 

Third: after these events happen in that same sequence several times (repetition is key!), classical conditioning happens. The dog learns (is conditioned) that the signal predicts an event. Now the signal (which is now called the "Conditioned stimulus or CS) alone will elicit the particular reaction (now called conditioned reaction or CR). For example:

• The sound of the leash (CS) predicts going out for a walk and makes the dog feel excited (CR).
• The sound of the car engine (CS) predicts your son is arriving and will feed the dog which makes him feel exctited (CR).
• Your particular set of "upset" body language signals (CS) predict you are about to get really mad and punish your dog, he feels fear (CR).

The dog has learned to associate two events.

It gets even better!

During classical conditioning our brain connects the two events to make them "feel" like they are the same thing! For example:

• The sound of the leash clicking will make the dog just as happy (for an instant) as being on the walk itself!
• The sound of the car engine will make the dog just as happy (for an instant) as greeting your son and eating!
• The vision of your particular "upset" body signals will make the dog feel just as afraid as if you were actually punishing him!

What does this mean to dog trainers?

You will be able to train your dog to "feel good" about a particular signal. For example a Marker Word or a distinct sound like a clicker. Then you can use the signal as the reward itself!

You must be careful too, or you can accidentally condition your dog to be fearful of certain things. The classic example is leash-aggression. When dogs are young and you first take them out for walks, it is natural to feel a little protective of your new furry friend. When other canines approach you unconsciously pull on the leash and tense up. Your pooch feels your reaction and eventually will see other dogs and tense up just like you do. Then, a handful of intense encounters might set your dog off, and now you have a dog that reacts only when he is on the leash.

Pavlov's Dogs

Classical conditioning is also known as "Pavlovian Conditioning". Ivan Pavlov, a Russian physiologist, discovered this learning principle by accident. He was a scientist interested in gastric function. He used dogs to study salivation.

In his experiment:

First (signal): he rang a bell

Second (event): he gave the dog food and measured salivation. He repeated the experiment many times with the same dogs.

Fourth (conditioning): This is what he discovered. Dogs only salivate after food is delivered to them, not at the sound of a bell. But after many repetitions of his experiment, dogs started salivating when they heard the bell (and before the food was presented to them!). The dogs learned to associate the bell sound with food and salivated in anticipation.

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Dog Training Methods Explained

Learn the best dog training methods! This article is an in depth review of some of the most popular canine training techniques. If you are interested in a particular one, check the right column list for a quick find.

Read, learn and follow the step-by-step tutorials to have a well behaved pet!

I will guide you the whole way, it’s easy, intuitive and it will give you the power to train your furry friend the right way!

But you have to do your part as well. Practice practice practice!

The article is divided into:

Part 1: Learning principles. Understand how animals learn with the laws of learning. They are the foundation of any dog obedience training method.

Part 2: Dog training methods. A description of different techniques with links to in depth articles. Which one to use? I will tell you the advantages and disadvantages of each one and help you choose the right one for you and your dog. You will most likely end up using several different ones to teach your pet a variety of commands.

Learning Principles:

I highly recommend that you spend some time reading about these three learning laws:

Classical conditioning, Operant conditioning and Extinction.

They are the basis of all dog training methods.

Classical Conditioning = basic learning

Classical conditioning is how we learn to associate a signal with an event.

When a signal is immediately followed by an event, animals learns to associate them. For example: Your pet gets excited when he hears you getting his food bowl. He has learn to anticipate that sound with being fed. 

The animal has no control over the signal. He can't make the signal start or stop. For example: No matter what the dog is doing, you won't feed him until it's dinner time. And when it's dinner time, regardless of what he is doing, you will grab the bowl and feed him. His behavior does not control dinner time. 

With lots of practice, the signal "feels" like the event itself. This is a key concept and why this principle is so important. You can train your pet to "feel" good about a particular signal (for example: a Marker Word) and then use this signal as the reward itself!

You will use classical conditioning to teach your pooch a Marker Word and also when using the clicker dog training method.

Operant Conditioning = "my behavior has a consequence"

Operant conditioning is how we learn to associate our own behavior with a consequence.

There are 4 possibilities:

1- The animal RECEIVES a reward for a particular behavior, so it performs that behavior MORE OFTEN. For example: the dog sits, you give him a treat. The dog will start to sit more often to try and get more treats

2- The animal RECEIVES a punishment for a particular behavior, so it performs that behavior LESS OFTEN. For example: the dog barks, his electric collar gives him a shock he doesn't like. The dog will bark less often to avoid being shocked.

3- A punishment is TAKEN AWAY or stopped when the animal does a particular behavior, so the dog does that behavior MORE OFTEN. For example: the dog is being chocked with a choke chain while snarling, he stops snarling and instead relaxes his face, the choke on the chain is released. The dog will relaxed his face more often to keep the chain from choking him.

4- A reward is TAKEN AWAY from the animal when he does something, the behavior appears LESS OFTEN, so the animal can get his reward back. For example: you greet your dog at the door, he jumps on you so you take away your attention (ignore him). The dog stops jumping to get your attention back.

The dog has control over the signal, he can make things happen or stop from happening by choosing the appropriate behavior.

You will use operant conditioning every time you teach a new command or when training manners.

The different dog training methods explained below will use one or more aspects of Operant Conditioning!

Extinction: getting rid of unwanted behavior

What happens if you stop giving your dog rewards?

Extinction happens.

What does extinction mean? exactly what you are thinking...

...something disappears.

In our case the behavior that was being reinforced will disappea

Extinction and Classical Conditioning

Remember that "Classical Conditioning" happens when we learn to associate two events.

For example: the sound of the leash clicking predicts the dog will go out for a walk.

Extinction happens when the signal does NOT predict an event any longer.

For example: If you start grabbing the leash and making noise with it, but then don't take the dog out for a walk (and repeat this many many times! And only take him out without the leash). The dog will learn that the sound of the leash has lost its meaning and will stop reacting to it. 

Extinction and Operant Conditioning

Remember that "Operant conditioning" is when we learn that our behavior has a consequence.

For example: You ask the dog to sit, he sits and gets a treat.

Extinction happens when the behavior stops producing the consequence.

For example: The dog sits but you don't give him a treat anymore. The dog learns that sitting does not get him a reward and eventually will stop sitting when you ask him to. 

Dog Training Methods Overview

Following you will find a quick review of dog training methods. Read the full articles for the ones that you think are better for you and your dog.

As you browse for things to teach your pet, or for help to solve a particular problem I will mention what training technique is being used and why. That way you can always refer back here

Luring: how to start training your dog

Don't know how to get your furry friend to sit? lay down? walk next to you?

Luring makes your dog follow you!

Luring is a way of moving your pet around and positioning him the way you want without pushing or using a leash! It is not always the most effective canine training technique but I highly recommend it for beginners!

In a nutshell: You put a piece of food between your fingers, your canine friend will follow your hand pretty much anywhere to get that treat! Now you can make him sit, lay down, walk nicely on a leash and much more!

Capturing: the best dog training method!

Capturing: Catch your dog doing what you want!

Capturing is one of the best dog training methods to use because it requires the dog to "think" about the situation and it uses only behaviors freely given by the animal.(But you need patience and practice!)

In a nutshell: to capture a behavior, you mark and reward it when your dog does it! Through positive reinforcement (Read Operant Conditioning) your canine friend will start doing that behavior more often and then you can add a command cue to it.

Shaping: an advanced dog training technique

Shaping is one of the advanced dog training methods because the trainer needs to be patient, observant and have great timing when delivering the reward.

Shaping is a powerful dog training technique because you can use it to train your pet complex behaviors like "turn the light on/off" or "bring me the remote control".

Shaping is a positive training method because you will never use force or discomfort.

In a nutshell: You will use a version of capturing. Instead of capturing the full behavior, you will only reward small approximations to the end goal.

Shaping: an advanced dog training technique

Shaping is one of the advanced dog training methods because the trainer needs to be patient, observant and have great timing when delivering the reward.

Shaping is a powerful dog training technique because you can use it to train your pet complex behaviors like "turn the light on/off" or "bring me the remote control".

Shaping is a positive training method because you will never use force or discomfort.

In a nutshell: You will use a version of capturing. Instead of capturing the full behavior, you will only reward small approximations to the end goal.

Targeting and other visual cues

Targeting is a way of speeding up some behaviors that are trained by Shaping. This is done by using a visual cue to prompt the dog on the right direction.

In a nutshell: start by training your pet to touch a target (it could be as simple as your hand in a fist or as elaborate as a nice stick with a ball at the end). You do this by Shaping.

Then you can use the target to make your dog touch things, move by following the target, etc.

Finally you must fade the target away to get a clean behavior.

Targeting is the most common way of using visual prompts to train many behaviors.

Modeling: not recommended

Modeling is a technique in which the trainer physically positions the animal to do what is desired. For example, to teach your dog to sit you would push his bottom down.

This is one of the dog training methods I do NOT recommend for several reason:

• It can be scary or uncomfortable to the puppy.
• It is not very effective since the animal doesn't have to use his own brain!
• Why use it if there are better options?

Always use dog training methods that reinforce a behavior freely offered by the dog!

Clicker Training: the revolution!

Clicker training is a positive reinforcement training method based on Operant Conditioning. It uses a "clicker" (small device that makes a sharp and distinct sound - click!) to tell the hound when he did something correctly. The clicker replaces the Marker Word.

Clicker training is one of the most popular positive canine training techniques for several reasons:

• The clicker sound - click! - is an excellent marker cue that any pooch can clearly distinguish.
• Because it is based on positive reinforcement, training sessions are fun! 
• It is a simple and effective dog training method that can be learned fast!

If you are planning on training your canine companion for more than just good manners, I highly recommend using clicker training.

If you only want to teach your furry best friend a few good manners, then using a Marker Word in combination with other dog training methods mentioned above should be more than enough. You can always add clicker training later on!

Systematic Desensitization and Counterconditioning

These two dog training methods are often used together to change an animals fear emotions to joyful or relaxed ones.

Does your pooch you have behavioral problems because of fear? Dog barking, dog aggression problems, and shyness/unmotivation due to past harmful training experiences are all examples of problems that can be solved with these techniques.

Systematic desensitization is a method in which you expose your hound to the fear eliciting-stimulus (i.e. other dogs, strangers, loud sounds, weird objects, etc) in a gradual manner. The key idea is to go very slowly, so that your dog has no fearful reaction (at all) during the whole process. 

Counterconditioning is like classical conditioning. The difference is that in this case your furry friend already has an association (a bad one!) with the fear eliciting-stimulus. So, by giving your dog treats or rewards every time the object/subject that produces fear appears, he will eventually start feeling happy instead of fearful! This happens because now your dog anticipates a yummy treat is coming! 

Flooding

This is also a dog training method to treat fears and phobias. It is also based on the principle of classical conditioning.

Unlike Systematic Desensitization, this technique is very traumatic and potentially harmful. This is because the animal is faced with the fear-eliciting stimulus at its worse. The animal is not allowed to escape or fight and this situation continues until the dog gives up.

You can probably see by yourself why flooding is not the way to go when your have a fearful dog. Why put your furry best friend through such a horrible experience when systematic desensitization works too!

I strongly recommend you STAY AWAY from it! As a matter of principle, never use any aversive method to treat your fearful canine companion. 

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